Category :

lemon white chocolate biscotti

LemonWhiteChoc_Biscotti-1

Buongiorno, le mie belle!

Come state?

Oggi, noi facciamo i biscotti!  

Punxutawny Phil must not have seen much last month, because it feels like we’re bypassing spring and hurdling straight towards summer. I don’t mind, though. After a strange and indecisive winter, the ability to expose my legs again is welcomed with open arms and open-toed shoes (flip flops.)

It’s also time for lemon everything: lemonade, lemon poppyseed muffins, lemon deodorant.

As the first signs of spring were approaching a few weeks ago, I felt an overwhelming urge to buy bags upon bags upon bags of lemons and make anything I could think of. I started with biscotti and muffins, and am thinking of expanding into curds, cupcakes, and carnivals. And I mean selling. I want to sell my lemon things at carnivals.

But I joke.

LemonWhiteChoc_Biscotti-2Though biscotti were originally meant for dipping in coffee or wine, I wouldn’t recommend dipping these in a Cabernet Sauvignon, per se. Coffee, on the other hand, Dio mio! Whenever I don’t feel like committing to a breakfast food, which is every morning even though I love breakfast foods but can’t be bothered to make any, I grab the Biscotti Box, an aluminum box that I have unofficially designated for biscotti, a bowl of coffee, and have at it.

I have no regrets, until I get to the end of the bowl of coffee and all the soaked cookie crumbs are spread out as if to tell me I have a bleak future waiting for me.

Il sigh…

 

making biscotti

I used to think that biscotti should be as hard and crispy as possible, because they were going to be soaked in liquid crack…I mean…coffee. While I was working through a few different biscotti recipes, I kept trying to get the perfect amount of crispiness without too much browning, and during a springtime event at work, while one of the chef instructors was carrying around a plate of apricot biscotti, I realized that the perfect amount of browning is…no browning.

Biscotti are like a game being played between the temperature of the oven and the amount of moisture in the dough: lower temperatures mean slower baking, but less browning. If the temperature is too high, the loaf burns before it’s dry enough to slice well, resulting either in burnt cookies or burnt and squished cookies. If the temperature is too low, you’ll probably have kicked the bucket before the dough is ready to slice.

Keep the oven temperature anywhere from 275 F to 300 F. The loaf, which dries out and firms up as it cools down, should be nearly non-squishy (like 90% non-squishy) when you press down lightly with a finger. You don’t want to see any brown, except perhaps on the bottom where the dough touches the pan. Softer dough means your cookies won’t keep their shape when you slice, and too-dry dough means the cookies crumble when you cut.

 

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Biscotti take time, but they’re not difficult or daunting, and once you’ve sliced the loaf into cookies, the rest is all downhill. Make these the night before, and enjoy them the next morning. And the best part is, they’re basically stale cookies to begin with, so they last a hell of a long time, unless acted upon by outside forces (my mouth. The outside forces are my mouth.)

 

lemon white chocolate biscotti

adapted from Cooking Light

makes approximately 2 dozen

 

240 – 270 g AP flour

1/2 tsp baking soda

dash of salt

180 g sugar

2 eggs

2 – 4 ounces chopped white chocolate

zest and juice of  a large (~75-gram) lemon or 2 (~38-gram) baby lemons OR 1/2 tsp lemon oil OR 2 tsp lemon extract

extra lemon juice, if needed (if using lemon oil, adding some lemon juice is suggested)

 

Preheat the oven to 275 – 300 F (135 – 150 C), put the oven racks in the center of the oven, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and baking soda.

In a large bowl or stand mixer, beat sugar, eggs, and flavorings until uniform. Mix in dry ingredients.

If the dough dry and crumbly, add lemon juice until it comes together into one cohesive mass. If the dough is more batter-y, add a little more flour so it firms up, until it’s only a little bit sticky*.

Use your hands, wet or floured, or a bowl scraper to transfer the dough to the baking sheets, and divide into 2 – 4 loaves. If the dough sticks a lot, flour your hands or wet them with water, and mold the loaves into long, thin, flat rectangles. Longer and thinner means more even and faster baking, and easier cutting. The logs will puff up and round out a little bit in the oven.

*I generally prefer to use the least amount of flour I can without compromising the integrity of the pastry. More flour means drier, less flavor, and less pleasant mouthfeel. 270 grams is a good amount for making dough that you can handle without having to add too much liquid, or knead the dough.

Bake the logs for 30 – 50 minutes, until barely soft anymore when pressed lightly with a finger. If they start browning around the edges before that point, turn the oven temperature down.

Remove from the oven, transfer immediately to a wire rack, and let cool until you can handle them, 10 – 15 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, slice the logs about 1-2 centimeters thick, and place the cookies, cut side down, back onto the cookie sheets.

Bake 10 – 15 minutes, flip, and bake again another 10 – 15 minutes, until mostly firm when squeezed. The cookies will harden and crisp up as they cool on the wire rack.

Remove and transfer immediately to a wire rack again.

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Arrivederci!

Nick P.

 

Categories: cookies

saturday spice: vanilla, botany of the bean

previous saturday spices:

cardamom [11/15/15]

cloves [12/05/15]

ginger [1/16/16]

vanilla [2/06/16] 

vanilla_beans-4

 

Aaaaaaand we’re back!

Hello.

How are you?

For those of you who missed the previous episode of Saturday Spice, we covered the beginning of the history of vanilla, an orchid native to Mexico and now grown primarily on Madagascar. Today, let’s look at the science of the plant, and do our own little vanilla tasting.

First things first, I am the realest.

Now that that’s out of the way,

 

vanilla_beans-2

 

taxonomic classification

Vanilla Planifolia, Flat-Leaf Vanilla, thrives in humid habitats, so it only makes sense that the 4 main producers of vanilla are tropical regions: Madagascar, Mexico, Tahiti, and Indonesia. The genus vanilla is the only member of the orchidaceae family, one of the oldest families of flowering plants, that bears any fruit, the vanilla bean pod*.

*Unlike lima and pinto beans, “vanilla beans” are actually seed pods, and the phrase is a misnomer. Officially, they’re “vanilla pods.”

Taking one step up the household staircase, we can see that the orchids are a member of the Asparagales order, otherwise known as the “asparagus and orchid” order. So…vanilla is related to asparagus? That’s nasty.

But I joke. The distance between such flavorfully opposed species is vast, and the family includes a wide range of other common garden plants, bulbs, and flowers. Some other siblings of vanilla and asparagus are hyacinths, narcissi, aloe, garlic, and onions. I’m no taxonomist, but those all seem pretty far apart to me.

One more step up, one more league separated: the Asparagus order is a member of the superorder of Lilianae, a superorder of flowering plants (angiosperms.) Orchids produce flowers, and vanilla produces fruit. Therefore: angiosperm.

I’ll bet you my bottom dollar that lilies are also members of the Lilianae superorder.

I could go on and on up the family tree, but that would take ages (and I’m abysmal at tree-climbing), so here’s the rest of it, abridged:

Kingdom: Plantae

Subkingdom: Viridiplantae

Infrakingdom: Strep throat…I mean….Streptophyta (land plants)

Superdivision: Embryophyta

Division: Tracheophyta

Subdivision: Spermatophytina (seeding plants)

Class: Magnoliopsida

 

And you know the rest.

 

the orchid

The vanilla orchid is a fleshy climbing vine that uses roots to cling to other surfaces, and can grow over 30 meters in length. During only two months each year, the green flowers bloom in groups, and the make matters worse (vanilla is a very picky plant), the orchid grows only 10-20 degrees north and south of the equator.

¡Qué lástima, Alaska!

After blooming, the flowers last a mere 24 hours before they wilt and fall. If pollinated, the vanilla pod will grow up to 20 centimeters over the course of 4-6 weeks, then spend the next 8 months maturing before harvest. When the base of the green pod starts to turn brown, it’s reaping time.

The uncured (raw) pods contain no flavor, but thousands of seeds. The flavor we know and love develops during the curing and fermentation process (topic of a later article), and differs depending on where the plant is grown.

Vanilla is the 2nd most expensive spice in the world (1st is saffron), because the pollination process must be done by hand in countries where the Mellipona bee does not exist, and is extremely labor-intensive. The bee is native to Mexico, having co-evolved with the orchid, but since Albus’s discovery of a hand-pollination method that aids in growth of the fruit in other countries, the other vanilla-producing regions have been using long, wooden needles to pollinate the flowers.

Imagine all the vanilla bakers use. Now imagine all the vanilla plants that contribute to the product. And now imagine pollinating all of those plants with your index finger…all for a batch of chocolate chip cookies.

Vanilla is both the saffron and garlic of baking: precious and expensive, but among the most ubiquitous of all ingredients.

 

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regions and varieties

There are four major vanilla-producing regions: the Bourbon Islands (Madagascar, etc.), Mexico, Tahiti, and Indonesia. 95% of the vanilla we consume is of the original species, planifolia, but 75% of the world’s vanilla crop is grown in the Bourbon Islands, which include Madagascar, Comoro, Seychelles, Mauritius, and Réunion.

The vanilla that we imagine when we dream of vanilla, the sweet, warm, creamy fragrance, is Bourbon vanilla from Africa. Hailing from the same species of orchid are Indonesian, woody, smoky, and ideal in chocolates, and Mexican (duh), creamy with a hint of spice. Mexican vanilla makes up the smallest percentage of the world’s crop, ironically.

Slightly more aggressive than its African counterpart, Mexican vanilla shines the most in sauces, like salsa and barbecue sauce, and pairs well with other bitter spices, like cloves and cinnamon.

The highest quality of vanilla, Bourbon vanilla is ideal for dishes where the bean isn’t the star of the show, but rather a complement to other flavors: chocolate chip cookies where the chocolate and brown sugar shine through, blueberry muffins that showcase the fruit and the buttermilk, or buttery shortbread.

Tahitian vanilla, on the other hand, is its own species, vanilla tahitensis, a hybrid of two older species of the orchidThe pod of Tahitian vanilla is plumper than that of planifolia, with a sweeter, cherry-like flavor. There are fewer seeds and less of the vanillin compound, so a slightly-reduced vanilla flavor, with hints of anise and fruit. As a result, Tahitian vanilla is best in dishes where the bean is the belle: custards, creams, syrups, and really anything with “vanilla” in the name.

Also, candles.

The next time you’re making crème brûlée, try scraping the seeds from a Tahitian vanilla pod into the custard.

 

This was fun. Let’s hang out more often,

Nick P.

 

sources

Earthy DelightsA Brief History of Vanilla. 

KEW: Royal Botanical Gardens. Vanilla Planifolia. www.kew.org.

Kitchen Daily. “Types of Vanilla: Mexican, Tahitian, and Madagascar.” Huffington Post Taste. 2012 Aug. 31.

Ruggiero, Jocelyn. “The 4 Kinds of Vanilla Beans to Know.” Food & Wine. 2015 July 23.

Rupp, Rebecca. “The History of Vanilla.” National Geographic: The Plate. 2014 Oct. 23.

Schneider, Caitlin. “The Flavorful History of Vanilla.” 2015 Oct. 6. mental_floss.

Spiegel, Alison. “It’s About Time You Knew Exactly Where Vanilla Comes From.” HuffPost Taste. Huffington Post. Online. 2014 Nov. 6.

Vanilla’s Origins. Nielsen-Massey Vanillas.

“Vanilla”. Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online.
Encyclopædia Britannica Inc., 2016. 08 Mar. 2016
http://www.britannica.com/topic/vanilla

 

upcoming spices:

ginger: health benefits

turmeric

cinnamon

Categories: saturday spice

muffin of the month, march 2016: muffins versus cupcakes

Lemon_Poppyseed_Muffins-4

previous monthly muffins

11/15, pumpkin streusel | | 12/15, gluten-free sweet potato | | 1/16, muffin history | | 2/16, vegan ginger muffins

Muffins and cupcakes are not the same thing. There may be plenty of overlap in recipe or preparation: both use chemical leavening (baking soda/powder), and you can make either with butter.

A frosted muffin is still a muffin and a glazed cupcake is still cake, and while you’re here, let’s just forget about the health implications of either (I’m not thinking of my spare tire when I frost cupcakes, y’all.)

When I first learned cupcake techniques at an internship (at a bakery that specialized in cupcakes) years ago, I scoured the Internet for a definitive answer to “what’s the diff?” and found some useful information. Inexplicably, I can’t find any of that information to share with you today, but fortunately, I remember most of it. Looking through the crooks and nannies (er….nooks and crannies?) of Google today, easily 95% of the information you’ll find says that there is no difference, that if you frost a muffin it becomes a cupcake, and if you glaze a cupcake it magically becomes a muffin.

I certainly can’t claim to be an expert in much, and I welcome any debate or disagreement with open arms, but to say that a frosted muffin is no longer a muffin is fundamentally unfair to muffins worldwide.

Don’t hurt muffin’s feelings, y’all.

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The difference is not on top of the pastry, but inside: Cupcakes are cakes baked in cups, while muffins are actually a type of bread.

As I mentioned in an earlier monthly muffin, American muffins are a descendant of yeasted English muffins, small rounds of bread fried in skillets. American muffins are (usually) made with chemical leavening: sodium bicarbonate (baking soda/powder.)

Muffins are quickbread baked in cups.

The nature of quickbread is a topic for a future post, but it’s basically bread made with baking powder.

Cake (non-vegan) is made by beating solid, softened butter* with sugar until it fluffs up and turns pale, then gradually beating in the rest of the ingredients (eggs, vanilla, salt, flour, and baking powder) until smooth and uniform. The batter is delicate and needs to be beaten for a few minutes.

*Vegan cupcakes made with vegetable oil instead of butter are still cupcakes. Here, the definition becomes a little fuzzy, but vegan cupcake batter is beaten longer than vegan muffin batter and has more non-animal fat, too. 

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Muffins, on the other hand, are heartier and more forgiving. A liquid fat (melted butter, canola oil, etc.) is whisked together with other liquids (fruit purees, milk, vinegar, eggs, etc.), while flour, salt, and baking powder are mixed together in a separate bowl. Then, the wet and dry mixtures are quickly whisked together, just until incorporated, apportioned into the baking cups, and baked.

In muffin batter, there is a higher ratio of liquid to fat or flour, while in cupcakes, the fat in the butter and eggs is vital to the texture. Something something fat inhibits the formation of gluten blah blah blah. As a result, muffins are denser than cupcakes (if you can’t decide whether what you’re eating is cake or bread, throw it against the wall. If it poofs, then you’ve just wasted perfectly good cake. If it thuds, it was probably bread and you’ve just wasted that, as well.)

But of course I joke.

It’s true that cupcakes are nearly always frosted, taking on the characteristic curvy cupcake silhouette, and muffins are often glazed or topped with dry ingredients. This, however, is simply tradition. Brioche in the shape of a crescent, filled with chocolate, is still brioche (or maybe pain au chocolat.) It doesn’t become a croissant because of the shape or filling.

 

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The muffin versus cupcake debate is deep, confusing, and eternal. It may never end, to be honest, and despite everything on the Internet (including these words), when all is said and done, what you call that soggy bit of deliciousness turning to mush in your mouth is completely up to you. If you want to call a cupcake a muffin so you can justify the extra calories, then I am with you…helping you eat the other 11 straight out of the pan because, personally, I couldn’t care less about calories.

 

I don’t yet have any of my own cupcake recipes on this blog, so here are some muffins:

vegan banana nut muffins | | whole wheat lemon muffins

 

See you later, muffin eaters,

Nick P.

Categories: Breads, cake, muffins