Category :

spiced swedish meatballs and brown gravy


My family isn’t Scandinavian, per se, though it’s clear we wish we were. My paternal grandfather was Irish and born in England, while my paternal grandmother was from Ohio, but also Irish much farther back. On my mom’s side, my grandmother’s family came over from Portugal a long time ago, and I don’t know about my grandfather’s family.



In other words, we’re European-ish. But we’re not Scandinavian. If anything, we’re Irish, but I’ve never made corned beef and cabbage myself and I’ve only successfully made an Irish pot roast once, so this blog isn’t quite ready for a real Irish recipe.



My dad’s family has lived all over the world, from Chicago to Copenhagen. In fact, my dad and some of his siblings went to high school in Copenhagen (and yet the only Danish he remembers is “Vi skal spise snart,” meaning “We’ll eat soon.”)

From my Irish grandfather’s English upbringing and his family’s travels, we’ve adopted a weird variety of family traditions. I don’t know where Birthday Mouse came from, but I do know that our Christmas risalamande is one of the family’s Danish traditions.

We called our grandparents (when they were still with us) farmor and farfar (our cousins called them mormor and morfar), the Swedish words for “(paternal) grandmother” and “(paternal) grandfather.”



Even though we may not have any Scandi in our blood (aside from one aunt through marriage), we have plenty of Scandi in our hearts. And so here are some köttbullar (pronounced “hyutt-boo-ler”), Swedish meatballs. The main flavor in the meatballs is the onion, and though the spices are optional, I refuse to make them without allspice. The general recipe is cooked onions, bread, milk, eggs, pork, and beef, fried in butter. Butter is hit-or-miss with frying, unless you have a good cast iron pan (which I do, and I always use cast iron to make these) that can withstand the wear and tear. When I make the meatballs, I end up not needing any extra fat between the butter for the onions and the fat from the red meat, but if you do need to add more fat for frying the meatballs, you can use vegetable oil, a combination of vegetable oil and butter, or just butter (but watch your pan and your heat if you use butter.)

My version of Magnus Nilsson’s recipe has a tiny Mediterranean flair: I deglaze the pan with white wine (you can also use beer) and make a cream sauce from that.



spiced swedish meatballs (svenska köttbullar) and brown gravy 

adapted from The Nordic Cookbook, by Magnus Nilsson

serves 4


4 Tbsp (2 oz) unsalted butter

1 yellow onion or half of one large white onion

1 tsp ground allspice

4 oz milk or cream

1.5 oz stale bread or unflavored breadcrumbs

1 egg

8 oz (1/2 lb) ground pork*

8 oz (1/2 lb) ground beef

a hefty pinch of salt

a hefty dash of ground black pepper

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour**

1/4 c white wine or light beer

1 c chicken stock

1 c heavy cream (for the sauce)

Egg noodles for serving


*Be sure that you’re not buying pork sausage or anything with the word “country” in the name: that’s breakfast sausage and is already seasoned (and very, very salty.) If you can’t find plain ground pork, or you can’t grind your own, ask the butcher.

**You only need the flour if you aren’t cooking the noodles. The water that you boil the noodles in will get starchy and you can add some of that to the sauce to thicken. If you are serving the noodles, then skip the flour. If you’re using the flour, add it after removing the last of the meatballs and before adding any liquid: flour for making sauces should go into the pan before the deglazing liquid.


Melt the butter in a cast iron skillet on the stove, on medium heat (you can use a different type of skillet or pot if you want, but I highly recommend bare or enameled cast iron.) While the butter is melting, mince the onion finely (because the onion bits will be in the meatballs.)

Add the onions and ground allspice to the skillet and let cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions brown a little bit and turn translucent, about 5 – 10 minutes. Prepare the rest of your ingredients while onions are cooking.

When the onions are done, turn off the heat but leave the skillet as it is, so you can use it to fry the meatballs.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the milk/cream, bread/crumbs, egg, pork, beef, and a hefty pinch of coarse salt and ground pepper.

Add onions to the mixture and combine with a spoon, whisk, or your hands, until the mixture is mostly uniform and you don’t see any dark red/pink spots left.

Cover the bowl in plastic wrap and let the mixture chill in the refrigerator for at least half an hour to let it firm up. With ground meat, it’s best to handle and cook it cold because it holds its shape better. You still need to be careful about internal temperature, for sanitation reasons, and ground meat is generally less sanitary than whole pieces of meat. Make sure your meatball mixture is chilled so the meatballs don’t fall apart in the skillet, but while cooking, make sure they brown thoroughly and cook all the way through.

Preheat the oven to 350 F/175 C, in case you need to finish the meatballs in the oven, and set aside a large ceramic baking dish.

Reheat the skillet that you used for the onions, on medium-high, adding more butter or vegetable oil if the bottom of the pan looks really dry.

Use spoons, your hands, or a cookie scoop (the cookie scoop is the safest and most consistent way to scoop the meatballs) to scoop the mixture. If you need to, roll the scoops of meat between your hands to form spheres.

Add the meatballs to the skillet. You should immediately hear sizzling as soon as you put the first meatball into the skillet, but not as much sizzling as when searing steaks. If you don’t hear the sizzling or you don’t see any bubbles around the edge of the meatball where it touches the pan, increase the heat slightly. If you immediately see smoke or the sizzling is intensely loud, reduce the heat slightly.

Add as many meatballs as you can without crowding the pan (they should be able to sit about 2 inches or 4 centimeters apart), let them brown on the bottom, then flip them to brown one more time on a different side. Each batch will probably take 3-5 minutes to brown on two sides.

You can either continue turning the meatballs to brown more than twice, and cook them through entirely on the stove, or you can transfer them to a baking dish and finish them in the oven for 5 – 10 minutes.

Test a meatball by cutting it in half: if it’s brown inside, that meatball and the others in the same batch are done.

When the meatballs are almost all done, start a pot of water boiling for the noodles. Once the water is at a rolling boil, add a splash of olive oil and about 1/8 c (most of a handful) of salt. Add the noodles and cook according to the directions on the package, but save about half a cup of the pasta water for the sauce before you drain the noodles. As soon as you drain the noodles, pour some olive oil on top and toss the noodles and oil together to keep the noodles from sticking while you finish the sauce.

Once all the meatballs are seared and out of the skillet, reduce the heat of the skillet to medium-low.

There should be plenty of fat in the pan from the meat, but if it looks dry or crusty, add a little more butter.

If you’re using flour for the sauce, instead of pasta water, add the flour to the pan and whisk to coat it completely in the oil. Let the roux cook and darken for a few minutes. (If you’re using pasta water for the sauce, save that for later in the process.)

Add the wine or beer and bring to a boil. While the alcohol is boiling, scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the skillet and whisk them into the alcohol. Let the alcohol boil down for 2-3 minutes until the volume is reduced and the liquid is a bit thicker.

Add the chicken stock (if you have pork bone stock, that will also work), and continue boiling to reduce and thicken the sauce.

Reduce the heat to low and slowly whisk in the cream, about 1/4 c at a time. Once the cream is totally incorporated, increase the heat to let the sauce simmer so that it thickens. If you’re using pasta water, add that to the gravy at this point. Let the sauce simmer at medium-high heat for about 5 – 10 minutes, tasting and seasoning occasionally, until it coats the back of a metal or wooden spoon.

Turn off the heat and add the finished meatballs to the sauce to coat them. Serve over the egg noodles.


Smaklig måltid! (“bon appetit”)

Nick P.


Categories: meats, savory

muffin of the month, february 2018: cheddar tomato muffins

previous butter + milk monthly muffins

6/17, balsamic roasted strawberry muffins || 2/17, glazed lemon poppyseed muffins || 8/16, gluten-free blueberry buttermilk muffins || 6/16, blackberry almond muffins



Cheese is in the air this week. Or is it love?

They’re basically the same thing.

When I think of February, I think of Valentine’s Day: chocolate, roses, champagne, fake aphrodisiacs, raspberries, tomatoes, cheese. I’m not the only one who thinks of tomatoes and cheese, am I?



If aphrodisiacs were a real thing (and we’ve proven time and again that they are not), cheese would be at the top of the aphrodisiacs list. Ignore the fact that it makes some people (me) fart like an angry motorboat.

Ever since I started this Monthly Muffin series, I’ve been thinking I should do something savory. Jalapeño english muffins are still on the docket for some time in the future, but I’ve actually had the idea of cheddar tomato muffins in mind for at least a year. I attempted them once maybe a year ago and then never got back around to them. I had so little faith in the results of that first attempt, I decided I wasn’t sure if I was ready to date again.



I mean, if I was ready to attempt to make cheddar tomato muffins again.

And now here we are, back in the game. And the game is bright, cheesy, herb-y, and delicious.

The muffins are made with just the rind of the tomato and without all the excess water from inside, shredded cheddar cheese, fresh oregano, and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese on top, plus a splash of ground white pepper for a little kick.

I considered using sundried tomatoes, but to be honest, I’m not a huge fan of them compared to fresh tomatoes. On the other hand, fresh tomatoes are insanely watery and I knew even before attempting these that it would be frustrating trying to get the recipe right. I remembered a technique I learned in a knife skills class at work for prepping tomatoes so that you avoid both the seeds and the water.



I don’t remember what it’s called, but here’s a little illustration. It’s essentially the same thing as supreming an orange.

  1. To start, you slice off about half a centimeter from the stem end and the opposite end of the tomato, so that you have both a flat surface on one side, and a window on the other through which you can see where the rind ends and the pulp begins. You can eat or toss the bit of the rind with the stem end, and keep the other piece for the muffins.
  2. Angle your knife so it’s approximately parallel with the side of the tomato (the curve) and place the edge of your blade right where you see the rind meet the pulp.
  3. Use a gentle sawing motion to cut the rind away from the fruit, changing the angle of your blade as you cut around the side of the tomato (from top to bottom), to conform to the curve of the tomato. Your goal is to get as much of the curved rind as you can, and as little of the watery pulp as possible. It’s similar to fileting and boning meat: you want your knife to follow the shape of the bones.
  4. You’ll end up cutting the rind off in strips approximately 1-2 inches wide, and because the tomato is a sphere and your knife is a straight line, you’ll have to cut off multiple strips of rind. I usually end up with 5-6 strips, as if I’m trying to make a pentagon or hexagon with the top and bottom of the tomato. (Insert Phantom Tollbooth reference here.)
  5. Once all the rind is cut away, you should have a disc from the bottom end of the tomato, and about 5-6 strips of rind from the sides, plus a squishy, jewel-like ball of tomato meat that has no skin.
  6. Now, dice the tomato rind. You can eat the skinless tomato meat balls or do whatever else you want with them. I’m not sure how they’d hold up for tomato sauce without the rind (I’ve never successfully made tomato sauce.)

Voilà! C’est une tomate sans les organes!

Making the muffins without the tomato meat means you won’t have to worry about too much moisture in the batter, the muffins getting damp after baking, or adding excess flour to compensate. Whenever you bake with fruit, you’ll always end up with excess water.



cheddar tomato muffins

makes 1 dozen


8.5 oz (2 c) all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp salt

2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp ground white pepper (can substitute black pepper if you want)

8 oz (1 c) milk

2 oz (4 Tbsp) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 large eggs

4 oz shredded cheddar cheese

6-7 oz diced tomato rinds (~3 regular tomatoes, 5~6 Roma tomatoes)*

2 Tbsp fresh oregano, minced

~1/4 c finely grated Parmesan cheese, for finishing

*The cutting and dicing technique is nearly impossible with cherry tomatoes, because they’re too small to hold while cutting. A larger tomato is easier, and a firmer tomato is easier to peel and dice than a soft one, as well.


Preheat the oven to 350 F/175 C and line a muffin pan with paper muffin liners.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, white pepper, and baking powder.

In a large bowl, whisk together the milk, butter, and eggs, until uniform.

Add dry ingredients to the wet mixture and quickly combine.

Add the cheese, tomatoes, and oregano, and fold the batter together just until no dry patches remain.

Scoop the batter into the muffin pan, filling each cup about 2/3 of the way, and sprinkle a large pinch of shredded Parmesan cheese on top of each muffin.

Bake 25 – 30 minutes until springy to the touch and the tops are turning a bit golden.

Let the muffins cool in the pan for a few minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to continue cooling.

Muffins keep for up to 48 hours wrapped individually in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator.



Nick P.

Categories: Breads, muffins, savory, seasonal produce